An In-Depth FAQ for Stove and Oven Owners in Newport Beach

• Why is my oven not heating to the correct temperature?

  An oven that heats but doesn’t reach the temperature you set is one of the most frustrating cooking problems. The most common cause is a faulty or inaccurate temperature sensor. This sensor, a small metal probe inside the oven, reads the internal temperature and tells the control board when to turn the heating elements on and off. If this sensor is failing, it can send incorrect information, causing the oven to be off by 25, 50, or even 100 degrees. Sometimes, if the sensor is touching the oven wall, it can also lead to inaccurate readings.

  Another frequent cause in an electric oven is a partially failed heating element. Most electric ovens use both a bake element (bottom) and a broil element (top) to preheat. If the bake element is burned out, the oven will try to heat using only the broil element, taking a very long time and never reaching the proper baking temperature. In a gas oven, a weak igniter that is not getting hot enough to allow the main gas valve to open fully can also lead to underheating. A professional technician can test the resistance of the sensor, check the elements for continuity, and measure the strength of the igniter to pinpoint the cause.

• What should I do if my gas stove keeps clicking?

  A gas stove that clicks continuously is a common and annoying problem. The clicking sound is the spark from the igniter trying to light the gas. If it continues after the flame is lit, it means the ignition system doesn’t know the burner is on. The first thing to check is for any moisture or debris around the burner. A recent spill or even cleaning solution can get into the burner head and disrupt the ignition process. Carefully clean the burner cap and the area around the white ceramic igniter with a brush and ensure it is completely dry.

  If cleaning doesn’t solve the issue, the burner cap may be misaligned on the burner base, which can prevent the flame from properly contacting the igniter to complete the circuit. If the cap is aligned correctly and the clicking persists on one or all burners, it often points to a component failure. The problem could be a faulty spark module, which is the “brain” of the ignition system, or a bad ignition switch connected to the burner knob. Because this involves both gas and electrical systems, it is highly recommended to have a qualified technician diagnose and perform the repair.

• Is it worth repairing a 10-year-old oven?

  This is an important question for homeowners. In many cases, repairing a 10-year-old oven is a very sensible and economical decision. High-quality ovens, especially from premium brands like Miele, Bosch, or KitchenAid, are built with durable components and are often good candidates for repair. Many common oven failures, such as a burned-out bake element, a faulty igniter, or a bad temperature sensor, are relatively straightforward repairs that can add many more years of reliable service to your appliance.

  The decision also depends on the nature of the repair. If the oven has a major failure of an expensive electronic control board, you will want to weigh that expense against the features of a new model. However, unlike some other appliances, oven technology does not change as rapidly. A 10-year-old oven often provides the same core cooking performance as a new one. A professional diagnosis is the best way to make an informed choice. Our technicians can provide a clear assessment of the problem, allowing you to decide if a repair is the right investment for your home.

• Why is my electric stove burner not working?

  When an electric coil or radiant glass-top burner stops working, the problem usually lies in one of a few key components in the electrical path. For a traditional coil burner, the most common cause is simply a loose connection where the burner plugs into the receptacle. Gently removing the burner and re-seating it can sometimes solve the problem. If not, the burner element itself may have burned out and will need to be replaced.

  If a new burner element doesn’t work, the issue is further down the line. It could be a damaged or burned burner receptacle, or a faulty infinite switch, which is the control knob that regulates the temperature. On a glass cooktop, the problem is a bit more complex as the radiant element is located underneath the glass. A failure of this element or the heat limiter that works with it will also cause it to stop heating. A professional technician can safely test these components with a multimeter to trace the source of the electrical failure and replace the correct part.

• Why did my oven stop working after a self-clean cycle?

  It is surprisingly common for an oven to fail immediately after running a self-clean cycle. The self-clean function works by heating the oven to extremely high temperatures (often over 900°F) to incinerate food residue into ash. This intense heat can be very stressful for the oven’s components. The most common failure is a blown thermal fuse. This is a safety device designed to cut power to the oven if it gets dangerously hot. The stress of a self-clean cycle can sometimes be enough to cause this fuse to blow.

  The high heat can also cause other components to fail. It can be the final straw for an aging heating element or a temperature sensor. In some cases, the heat can even damage the electronic control board, which is often the most significant repair. Another common issue is for the door lock mechanism to fail, either refusing to lock to start the cycle or refusing to unlock once the oven has cooled down. A technician can diagnose whether the issue is a simple fuse or a more complex control board or lock failure.